Build a Lighted NASCAR Diecast Display (One Day)

Got a growing NASCAR diecast habit and nowhere worthy to park them? A simple, lighted wall display turns a scattered collection into a sharp, showcase-worthy lineup.

What you’ll get:

  • A 5-shelf display sized for standard NASCAR diecasts
  • Clean side channels for LED strips and hidden wiring
  • Tips to avoid rework and keep a future expansion path

Tools & Materials

    Plan the build first

    • Lock dimensions around your cars: roughly 8 1/4 in long, 2 1/2 in tall, 3 in wide. Allow shelf depth at 9 in so the cars don’t look crowded.
    • For five cars, target about 27 1/2 in overall height. Sketch a quick cut list and order of operations; it saves time and fixes later.
    • Keep the back panel slightly wider than the shelves (example: back ~10 1/2 in for 9 in shelves) to tie the sides together.

    Elevate the cars, not the wood

    • Add narrow riser strips under the wheels. They disappear visually but add presence, similar to a subtle plinth.
    • Keep risers the width of the tire track and set flush so the shelf doesn’t steal attention from the cars.
    • If you can’t pin-nail, short staples work in a pinch for tacking risers to shelves.

    Route clean LED channels

    • Cut a vertical channel inside each side panel for LED strips. A router with a guide gives a single clean pass.
    • Add a short matching channel in the bottom shelf to carry the interconnect wire across to the opposite side—keeps wiring hidden.
    • Test-fit strips before assembly. Plan the wire exit and a discreet spot for a switch.

    Assemble smart, keep it serviceable

    • Dry-fit shelves, feed LED strips and wires, then fix shelves to sides. Stick LED adhesive into the channels after a final test.
    • If you want to repaint or expand later, skip glue on the back. Pre-drill, countersink, and use short screws; add rubber feet to protect surfaces.
    • Mount the switch and manage slack with a small cable clip. Hook-and-loop tape is handy for removable components.

    What I’d tweak next time

    • For front-edge illumination, set LED channels slightly forward or add a shallow light valance. Rear-edge channels favor backlighting.
    • Pre-stock the right fasteners for risers; it avoids compromise hardware.
    • Add a bottom wire chase or cover strip if the case will be freestanding and you want zero-visible wiring.

    A little planning plus clean channels for LEDs makes this display feel custom, not crafty. Build the five-shelf version now and keep space for a future add-on when your collection grows.