Save Your Favorite Snow Shovel: Grip + Rust Fix

Cold, bare metal handles make quick winter cleanups miserable—and old shovels rarely go quietly when you try to upgrade them.

What you’ll get: a simple, durable handle refresh using oversized heat shrink, plus tips for freeing a rusted-in pipe and cleaning it up.

Free a rust-locked handle

• Expect a fight. A rusted-in pipe can turn a 20-minute plan into an hour-plus. Don’t force fasteners; work the grip and leverage.
• Improve traction. Towels help, but proper gloves make the difference when twisting stubborn parts. That upgrade turned a stalemate into a 5-minute win.
• Watch for hidden bind points. Plastic end caps or collars can seize the assembly; breaking their grip is often the key.

Clean the metal before new grip

• Strip to bare metal where the grip will sit; remove surface rust until it’s uniformly clean. Aim for smooth, not polished.
• A Milwaukee die grinder works, but a flat wheel on a round tube isn’t ideal—keep the tool moving to avoid flat spots or gouges.
• Degrease thoroughly with alcohol so the heat shrink adheres uniformly. Any residue telegraphs through the finish.

Heat shrink done right

• Test-fit oversized heat shrink before cutting. Large sizes will collapse cleanly if you give them time and consistent heat.
• Use a Milwaukee heat gun with steady passes. Battery swaps happen—be patient for even shrink without scorching.
• If the first layer interferes with reassembly, trim it back, assemble the handle, then add a second layer over everything and shrink in place for a tidy, locked-in finish.

Fasteners and finishing touches

• Refresh rusty screws on a wire wheel before reinstalling; clean threads make reassembly smooth and keep the look cohesive.
• Dry-fit once, then commit heat. Shrink toward fixed ends to chase air out and avoid bubbles.

A little persistence turns a cold, slippery handle into a warm, grippy upgrade while preserving a tool with history. Keep it simple: clean metal, patient heat, and a second pass only where needed.