Trailer Bunk Replacement: Smart, Solid, Done Right

If your bunks flex like a soggy cracker or spit out lag screws, it’s time. Swapping rotted boards and dialing in carpet adhesion isn’t hard—but a few tricks make it last.

What you’ll get:

• A clean process for bunk tear-out, board prep, and carpet wrap
• Clamping and stapling tricks that stop loose edges
• Hardware choices that survive wet launches

Inspect before you wrench

Don’t judge bunks from 10 feet away. Lift each board at mid-span; if it folds like an upside-down V or the ends crumble, it’s done. Watch for warped long runs that kick lag screws out—those carry most of the load and deserve priority.

Prep boards so adhesive has a chance

Knock down the mill glaze with P60 sandpaper. You’re not reshaping—just giving adhesive more bite. Pull factory barcode staples with pliers for a flush wrap. Lay out your hardware and clamps before opening adhesive to keep the pace steady.

Clamp first, staple second

Spread adhesive, lay the carpet, then span a straight 2x4 on top and clamp. Let clamping do the ‘set,’ not the staples. Pull the carpet tight and keep staples off the visible faces. If an edge lifts, you likely skipped clamping there—add another 2x and clamp the full length.

Fasteners that don’t quit

Use stainless steel lag screws for re-mounting bunks. Reuse good hardware where it still bites, but replace the middle fasteners on stressed spans. Confirm your standoff and alignment (for example, holding 2-1/4 in where required) before you sink the lags.

Work solo, but plan the sequence

Long 12-footers fight you—an extra set of hands helps lay carpet evenly. Shorter 8-footers can be flipped, clamped, stapled, then mounted by one person. If you’re short on clamps, rotate: clamp, staple, install, then re-clamp any questionable edges on the trailer.

Final takeaway: Careful inspection, real clamping, and stainless lags turn a soggy bunk job into a solid upgrade. Replace the worst now and finish the rest before they fail on the ramp.